And the Albanians of Kosovo expect autonomy to arrive one way or another. Nothing else will do. Their community is reproducing far more quickly than the dwindling Serb minority. And they are getting used to their new freedom of expression. But what replaces a dismantled Serb legacy is not always homegrown. In the capital Pristina, for example, a main thoroughfare has been renamed Bill Clinton Boulevard. I even came across a clothes shop called Boutique Hilary.

Clinton Boulevard, Pristina, Kosovo, November 2004